Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Seven Seas Later...

Well troops here I am in Kudat. The good ship Olza rests at ease at the marina here, and my work here is done. The final 15 day run from Tawau was a real battle. We had to motor most of the way, because the wind pinned our nose with uncanny precision the whole way around Borneo. We weaved through reefs, rocks, shipwrecks and numerous other hazards and nearly got run fown by a bulk carrier ship. I got real sick at one stage after I dived over the edge to scrape some barnacles off the hull in Semporna. The tide began to turn and so much garbage floated past me. A nappy went past my face. I was in agony and bucket bound for a week. Malaysians dont give a fuck about pollution, unfortunately. The beach at Sandakan was the worst I've seen. Had to wade through a 2 feet deep layer of plastic and shit to get off the beach. Full on. Apart from that the country is pretty good. Pretty developed and modern, but I like Indonesia better. More charachter and nicer people. No money brings out the best in people. But anywho.
Easily the best bit was when I swam with a bunch of giant sea turtles in this amazing bay at sunset. Possibly the most awesome thing I've experienced. They were all swimming around the boat as we dropped anchor, so I jumped in and joined them. Perfect. I'd marry Mother Nature for that. Easy.
Our engine died with 20 miles to go just before we were to round the northern cape of Borneo. Not cool. Good old Olza way well be the slowest, least well prepared ship to sail up-the-wind on the seven seas, and we had plenty of wind. Straight, as usual, on the nose blowing clean from Kudat. We spent 3 days and nights storming the cape. Hard fuckin work, dudes. So close to the finish line of a long long journey with so little time to spare. Frustrating stuff. Tacking left and right across the channel for ages and ages in a battle of inches, until finally we began to make some progress as the with the wind slowly shifting to the NW. I had just about given up on the third morning, we could still see the place where our engine had failed three days before. Then, as if by magic, our prayers were answered and we got an awesome wind that blew us all the way home. One last bit of champagne sailing really got the juices flowing I tell you. Wind in the hair, sun on the skin and that satisfying hiss of the boat cutting through swell. Ahhh. Man! We enlisted the help of a few fellow yachties who towed us in to the marina and before we knew it, it was all over. Mixed feelings and emotions and thoughts going everywhere. Been a long, wild ride, and I'll never forget it. Something else I tell ya.
In other news I have decided to put Canada on the shelf for 12 months. Im running out of money and would need to borrow money off Mum to continue. I cant do it. Im 26. Time to go home and earn my independence, and do it under my own steam. Centrelink is hassling me for money too so that needs sorting out and I have a parasite in my eye. All signs point to Oz. And to tell you the truth I'm heaps heaps keen for it. Steaks, VB, the Ashes, fat banjos, video games, YOU. Australian summer has never sounded better. Canada will be there next year, and my work visa lasts 12 months. So I think I'll go back to Brissy via Sydney, Newcastle, MP, and Coffs and try get some shitty job to last me till the next pearling season in Darwin. Pumped. Going to spend a week in the Jungle then romp on home, so this will be the last blog post for a while. Thanks for taking the time to read it, ay. Makes me feel good. Anyways Stay tuned for version 2.0. A man, a van and the Americas. Going to be a hoot!

First thing you know Ill be back in Bow Riveeee-rrrrr... Aaaaaa-gainnnnnnnnnnnn.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Tawau Rock City

Well gentlemen, ladies, I have been in Tawau, Malaysia 4 days now. Indonesia was the best ever. Most awesome people on God's blue Earth. Tawau itself is a bit of a dive. Kind of looks like Bankstown or Redfern or some shit place like that. Day before yesterday though, I dropped into a music studio to buy a Morbid Angel t-shirt I saw in the window, next thing you know I was jamming in the studio with the dude, Paktam. Pretty much the legend around town it seems. My Guitar skills: shameful. Drum skills: worse. Turns out his band, Noisy Crush, a grunge/rocknroll cover band was playing a gig that afternoon. I went along and got my mosh on to some local bands, sang backup vocals on "Smells like teen spirit" for Noisy Crush, who ripped it pretty hard, and sang an Arctic Monkeys number with another band. The scene here in Tawau is really good, all the bands were sweet and the kids sure no how to mosh. I busted my toe up good, but it is a long-established fact that thongs and hardcore dancing don't mix. All in the name of rock and roll, so it's all good. I met some really rad people and had a sweet, sweet time.

Yesterday I stayed on the boat, jumped in the water heaps and listened to terrible 80's and 90's music beamed from KL on the radio real loud. I ate so many biscuits with jam, drank alot of coffee, read and wrote and smoked cigarettes all day. Ended up covered with salt and sunburnt. It was a good day.

Today, after lunch, My skipper and I are set to begin our last hair-raising leg of our intrepid voyage. We plan to get around the northern tip of Borneoto Kota Kinabalu in 2 weeks. A slightly ridiculous proposition, sailing by day and night around 400 miles of fairly dangerous coastline, but whats life without a bit of danger eh? The whole coastline is a jumble of reefs, rocks, islands and atolls, and Tad's charts are pretty dodgy, but we are capable. Besides, we dont have much choice. Skipper has to get back to Oz because everybodys favourite wankers at Centrelink are trying to take his pension and the closest marina is at KK. So it's a mad dash for the finsh line for the 2 men aboard the Good Ship Olza. May Neptune, Apollo and the good Lord above guide our way. HUZZAH!

Monday, September 27, 2010

Nunukan Run, but Nunukan Hide

It's been a while, me hearties, but here I am in Nunukan at last. Nunukan is the Indonesian border-town on the east coast of Borneo. Today is my last full day in Indonesia before we haul anchor and set sail for Tawau, Malaysia tomorrow morning. Our 10 day run here from Buol, where we wre arrested by the coast guard for not checking in just after the last blog post, and I later had one of the best times of the trip so far playing soccer on the beach with the local kids, was by far the most eventful sea-passage yet.
        The first few days saw us battling for inches against strong currents, huge, wild storms and large, sharp seas. As we pushed purther north into the Celebes Sea though, we actually got a few days of steady wind and easy sailing with the current. Some of our first extended sessions of easy sailing so far. Like a dream. We were sailing along a shipping line however, and this demanded constantly for us to be on the full lookout, as those oil rigs and bulk carriers close really fast. We had a couple of very close encounters. They either dont keep a lookout or dont care. Even when they should give way, they just plough on ahead. Scary. We got next to no sleep there for about 5 days. There was a turning point in amongst it all there for me personally, one still, perfect sunrise. Up until then I had been progressively struggling to cope with the strain of the stress, lack of sleep, lack of food, lack of cigarettes, my skipper, fear, anger, exhaustion, homesickness. Its hard to describe but I became tougher. Right there on the spot. The night before had been hell, but I was suddenly filled with peace, strength and a feeling of self-belief. This wild ride has changed me, in some ways, friends. Not personality-wise, but intrinsically.
      But anyways, we still had a long way to go, and time on our visas short. A couple more days of pretty standard sailing, but things were improving. I was really up for it all, and me and Tad started to get along alot better. Early in the morning, we glimpsed what we believed to be our first sighting of mythical Borneo. It turned out to be a giant oil platform. It was sobering that day, as we sailed towards one of the last true wildernesses left on Earth. The night before, i could smell the jungle, and was filled with dreams and excitement, you can smell land before you can see it.
       Day 7 we first saw an oil rig, then on the outgoing tide, hundreds or thousands even of logs and dirty water. Nothing and nowhere is sacred in the world of greed, capitalism and the almighty dollar. Sickening. Later that night we were drawing close to the island of Nunukan, but a strong current was pushing us backwards, so we dropped anchor, exhausted. Not too long after, around four in the morning,we were snagged in a drift-net employed by the local fishermen. We managed, (at least we thought so) to cut it free. We got hit by two more of the 250meter long nets in the next 4 hours. No ewst for the wicked, eh? Bad, bad spot. We decided to get the hell out of there. Our motor wouldnt budge. I spent most of the  morning diving under the boat trying to hack the remains of the first net from the propellor. There was alot of it and I didnt make much of an impact. The current was very strong, and I was getting turned to mincemeat on the barnacles on the bottom of the boat. Just as the tide was turning towards Nunukan, a strong wind picked up and we sailed the rest of the day at up to 9 knots. Our fastest speed of the trip so far. I spent the first 4 hours of day 9 diving under and cutting the net free. I finally did it after about 200 dives. Hard yakka, I tell you.
       That night we motored to Nunukan, through a minefiels of nets and buoys at high speed with the skipper on deck yelling coordinates at me and things like "70°", and "Hard to port gaddamit!" we were nearly snagged a couple of times. It was like a videogame. got snagged twice. had to cut a rope free the first time, but the speed of the boat pukked us free the second. Fuckin wild. Eventually we dropped anchor late afternoon day 10. Had an awesome day 1 in Nunukan (the kids, beautiful town), an awful day 2 (beauracracy, missed opportunities). Today is my last here. Malaysia tomorrow, here we come!
Fuck, long post, good luck with that!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Sailing: It's not always cookies, cream and fine aged scotch...;

Sometimes its hard work. It was a long hard slog to Buol, my friends. Damn near lost my mind sometimes. Sailed for 7 days and nights, either against the wind, or no wind at all, for the most part. We had to motor a fair bit. The no wind times are the worst. Sitting there it the still, humid heat, bobbing like a rubber ducky. Quite often going backwards with the current. Been getting some serious cabin fever also. Things are very tense a lot of the time between me and the skipper. He treats me like a kid, never listens or gives me any respect and constantly hassles me. I never back down, either. We're both at fault, though and under a lot of stress. These things are bound to happen when stuck in a boat with someone so different for so long, under such conditions, I suppose. Learning a thing or two about patience, respect and self-control.

My time at the wheel on these stretches is long. I spend at least 18 hours/24 average at the helm over the compass, around the clock. Averaging about 1-3 hours sleep. And never in my life have I eaten so many 2 minute noodles. not even at uni! Tea consumption is also at unprecedented levels.

We saw our fair share of dangers out there too. Ran into a big mooring drum late one night that could well have done alot of damage to a fiberglass catamaran, but gold ol' steel-frame Olza was unscathed. On night four, about midnight big thunderclouds began building in all directions around us, surrounding us. Slowly but surely they converged upon us, leaving a gauntlet in front like a corridor between the storms. It was like being on Gladiators in the gauntlet, except with Odin, Thor and Zeus as the gladiators. Still the stars were above as we sailed into the eye of the storm. Then all was still, with chaos all around. Suddenly the sky closed over and everything was black. So, so black. Lightning started to hit very close to us in all directions every 3 minutes or so. The wind howled, the rain poured down and the whole Sky Trembled and roared with power. Moments like these really put the Fear of God into a man. The whole experience lasted for a good 2 hours. Truly terrifying at first, but after a while you get used to it, the feeling that you could well die, and just go for it. Really exciting stuff, friends. Was singing "Riders on the storm" real loud and enjoying myself. Give me danger and stormy weather over midday heat waiting for wind any day.
 Night six I was out on appointment with the red bucket, when I saw a black shape very near our course. It turned out to be a boat moored to a bouy. No lights, nothing. Were very luck to have missed it. Lucky I heeded the call of the wild and saw it, surely would have ended in disaster.

But, here we are, alive and kicking. Getting some Diesel, food and things before we begin our last Indonesian run towards Nunukan in Indonesian Borneo. From there we say selamat jalan Indonesia, and Apa kabar Malaysia. Going to be a long stretch one feels between here and there. I'm thinking around 2 weeks. Looking at the geography of the stretch too, I reckon winds and currents could be strong coming out of the Makassar straight, but anyways... Over and out gang stay safe and ill be in touch from Nunukan soon enough.

Drink up me hearties, Yo-ho

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Crossing live to Manado, its Ron Burgundy; Post Shower. "Hello Bitches"

Ohhhh shit. Well Here I am in Manado. We have crossed the halfway mark of our voyage, the westward stretch to Borneo. Halfway there, livin on a prayer, unions on strike but fuck them. It took us 5 days to cross the Maluku Sea, the stretch of open water between Ternate and Sulawesi. We were constantly being pushed Northwards and East, as opposed to west, due to southwesterly winds and a constant current to match. Tricky sailing. But it was no biggie for The Skipper and I, the mangy bearded sea-dogs that we be, as you can see.
The old sea-legs played havoc with me upon landing the dinghy ashore, as i fell on my face and grazed the shit out of my knee on my first step on land. Impressive. This inspired a few local fisher-gents just bringing in their catch at 7.30am to invite me to join them for a glass of their home grown whiskey. Boys were fully on it. Pre-breakfast bingefest singalong. What a job! Fresh stuff. Lose one, win one.
After we spent the whole first day searching for and battling the fascist beauracracy of customs, immigration etc, I checked into a hotel last night in the name of humanity. Had my 2nd through 4th showers since I left Australian shores, and my first shave. (My beard and I definately weren't friends, in the end. I looked like the dude from Burzum after he got out of jail) Slept in a bed, went out in town and got drunk. So awesome. These things might sound pretty ho-hum and mundane to all you LAND LUBBERS out there, but believe me, I feel like Troy Mclure after all that good stuff. Fully legit.
So we leave wednesday, on our blazing trail of nautical decimation towrds Borneo, where I plan to make friends with a wild orangutan, and spend a night in the bat cave getting shat on. Actually I dont plan on doing that. Anywho..... I'm getting a tatoo tomorrow. Only reason I'm not getting it TODAY is because the place is shut sundays. Miss ya Dad.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Live from the base of the volcano: Ternate Indonesia, yo!

Ah salam gang, alive and well I be. Another 2 week stretch on the boat, north from Ambon, through the Maluku Islands in Indonesia, to Ternate, a city at the base of a volcano that last blew its top in 94. These dudes really do live on the edge haha. So heres how it panned out. We sailed from Ambon on the 7th, and dropped anchor the next afternoon out the front of a small village called Kelang. You should see this place hey. Tiny villages on the most incredible islands. Huge islands rising straight from the sea, covered in the best thickest rainforest. So remote too. That afternoon I saw A whale, breached like 20m from the boat. Absolutely epic. Also a mackerel at least 2m long jumping out of the water about 5 foot chasing a barracuda. The marine life here is so good.
The next day, some locals came out in one of their traditional longboats and gave me a ride into their village. A cool, isolated islamic community. About 300 people, and they all came around to have a look at me, I was quite popular. I got invited to the head-of-towns place, and we had a coffee and a few local smokes. Apparently, from what little Bahasa Indonesian I can understand, I was the first westerner to visit there in over 20 years. Really cool. Sailing is the way to travel, man.
Stopped at a few similar places on the way up here to Ternate. Along the way, some of the sights I have seen have blown my mind. Sailfish, dolphins that jump huge heights out of the air, volcanoes,  Real deal tropical thunderstorms, monkeys, albatross, fireflies lighting up the forest, sunrises, sunsets. Man I could go on forever. Sometimes my skipper gives me the shits, but hes a pretty good bloke. Cabin fever sometimes though haha.
Finally after 2 weeks we made it here to Ternate, the last of four perfect huge volcanoes in a row. The city here is at the base of it, 1720meters of smoldering fury that last blew chunks in 1994. 106,000 people living in no fear. The city is awesome. Heavily Muslim, the chants and prayers are constantly pumping on the loudspeakers. Really does feel like another world. You really do have to respect their devotion ay. Forget the extremist bullshit, the people here in Indo are really, really friendly and helpful. Islam is alright by me.
But anyways, I'm having the sickest time. Those of you waiting for photos are in for a wait, as my digi is flat as of aaaages ago and i cant charge it on the boat. Shot a shitload of film though, and as soon as I buy a mini laptop in Malaysia and a film scanner ill set to work in Canada.
Going to be here for a few more days then its off west to Manado on our way across the top of Sulawesi towards Borneo, Malaysia and finally Brunei Before i get off the boat, and head off solo.
Livin the dream, baby. Livin' the dream.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Hectic

10 days on the Indian Ocean. The hardest, scariest, most challenging, wildest thing I've done so far. Left from Darwin on the24th of July,arrived here yesterday,2nd of August. Average speed of 3.5/5 knots. I spent most of my time at the helm (steering wheel). Long hours, and hour of sleep here and there, nearly lost my mind at times, staring at a compass for hours and hours on end on a 24 hour shift basis with my skipper Ted. Beautiful at times,sunsets,sunrises, dolphins and all that. The ocean is a surreal place. Beautiful, eerie, uncompromising, timeless. At night in the blackness it is truly terrifying. You can definitely hear the voices of the lost souls out there,i am not even shitting you. The whole experience was the biggest test of endurance i have ever known. I wasnt always up to it. Lost my nerve at times, but I'm a better man for it. Brought me down to earth. Awesome experience, though. I made it. Andnow here Isit in sunny Amahusu, Ambon Indonesia. Its really fuckin cool here,sort of looks like south america here in tropical mountainous forest by the sea, the place is so chaotic and wild. Rabid dogs everywhere, people saying "mister, Mister!", cool people, fuckin bedlam. All  i can hear is roosters and constant car/motorbikes and horns beeping. I love it. Staying here for a few days then making the slow ocean crawl to Bali, via a few islands on the way. Exciting times!

Monday, July 19, 2010

Belike 'n' Bedamned, Pyrate's life it be.

So I'm finally hitting the old dusty trail and leaving Oz. Made the decision to go sailing through Indo, Malaysia, towards Brunei and Borneo. Going with an old Czech expat named Ted Wanta aboard his good ship Olza. Cruising around and generally just loitering and being heaps stoked on how cool everything is for a couple of months, then I'm bailing in Brunei before Ted goes to the Phillipines and picks up his wife, and heading ashore for a while and checking Vietnam and shit out before tracks lead to Canada. Ill just have enough money hopefully, but money is for pussies anyway. Leaving first light Saturday morning, sailing for the first point of call, Ambon, Indonesia, in approx. 1 week. They have internet there so I'll keep you all posted on all the cool shit thats happened, such as giant squid attacks, whirpools, albatrosses curses, pleisiosaurs, mega-sharks, the galleons of spain, mutiny and Port Royal tobacco. See yas all later!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Crossroads.

Well I stand now at a pretty big decision. On one hand, I go back to work, earn another 5 or 6 grand, and travel good and proper. On the other, the Darwin-Ambon Sailing rally beckons, leaving next saturday for bare knuckle adventure, which was my original plan, though with not nearly as much money as I'd like. The pro's and con's for either option are evenly stacked, and as soon as I think I'm going one way, I sway to the other. God has thrown me a flipper, and right now I feel like Darryl Cullinan. I have the weekend to decide my fate. Both options are very, very lucrative. The question is, will I stay or will I go?

Saturday, July 3, 2010

woo.

July begins with me signing a new job contract with Paspaley Pearls. First thing sunday morning I will be flying on a Mallard water plane bound for the coast off the Kimberlies in West Oz for a month of straight work (No Weekends) on the pearl farms out there. It will be a welcome change from the labouring work I have been doing at the shipyards here in Darwin, although that work was actually pretty good. Good crew of blokes and lasses I'm going out with too, so my nuts are pumped. 12 hour hard-workin, He-Man days, but the fishing is amazing apparently, and there is a distinct possibilty of getting eaten by sharks or giant  crocodiles, or killed by box jellyfish. Can't wait! May be out of contact for a month, mabe not, will keep you posted. Oh by the way I am going to be mega rich after 2 months of this. Oprah rich, yo. Cant wait to buy a motorbike in asia and a plane ticket to Bali. And one to Canada. Look out world, here she comes.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Darwin Begins.

So pretty much all the goodbyes have been said, and here I am. I have a lot of awesome people in my life. You're all pretty rad.
I made it to Darwin. Dirtiest, mangiest person on the plane by far, with a head full of everything and a wallet full of nothing. Sydney was mind-blowing, and Newcastle was too short-lived. Manning Point never changes and Brisbane saved my life. All things considered my Goodbyes score 11/10. Love.
Darwin is pretty cool. So relaxed here and there are so many babes its ridiculous. I have never seen any of the birds here before, the pigeons are tiny. Beards are popular. Too many Europeans. I'm staying at the YHA for 30 bob a night, got myself ready to go out and find myself a job tomorrow. If not pearling I'll be going mining. See how we go. Pretty optimistic. Ill be here a month and a bit before I say hoo-roo to OZ. Sweating. It's already been a long, long journey, but it has only just begun.

Positive.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Hey Pals

Im doing this thing to keep you guys updated on my goings on during my adventure out into the big blue world. Hopefully I will have a bunch of stories and photos to share with you. It's going to be a wild ride kids, so stay tuned!

-- Love jimbo...